This is a really long blog but there is SO much to say about the South of India. There are sub headings to guide you so please take and use the parts that you need and I hope some of the tips you find here help you on your pilgrimage along India’s tropical coastline. Why you should definitely visit the south of India: Southern India’s coastline is dotted with dreamy tropical beaches. The weather is usually ridiculously hot so it is the perfect place for a cheap holiday in the high season or the low tourist season but you wouldn’t want to come here in the monsoon season as you won’t get to enjoy the beaches – they all disappear with so much rain. The locals are very friendly, welcoming and hospitable and will help you out in any way they can. There is something for everyone here from Yoga, Meditation and Ayurveda for people like me seeking the more spiritual side of India to the trance, dance party’s in Goa where you can groove all night with people from all over the world including the party loving locals. Budgeting and Money: Rhys and I have been budgeting for 2000 rupees per day or $40 NZ between us in the low tourist season of Indian Summer (May-July) not including more pricey, touristy fun events or long distance travel. This has been plenty to eat 3 delicious meals each, shop around and buy trinkets/clothing/souvenirs, drink about 5-7 cold bottles of mineral water each day, feed a few stray animal friends and share some small rupees with beggars, catch rickshaws here and there and have a comfortable bed to sleep in each night. We have been averaging about $330 NZ per week which means some days we have been a bit over budget with myself attending yoga classes and shopping up a storm but this is including all we need to live a fun and exciting life here in India and also our longer more expensive nights of travel usually costing around $60 NZ for the two of us to travel on a sleeper bus or train with AC. Getting around: -Local bus- If you are travelling somewhere only an hour or two away from your current location try to catch a local bus. You can talk to any travel agent for more information or if you are in a non-touristy town with no travel agents ask any local where the bus station is and head there for more information. The local bus will usually be your cheapest option to move here or there. To travel 65 kms by bus cost the two of us 110 rupees for two tickets which is around $2.20 NZ. Madego in Goa has a fantastic bus station where you are able to catch buses to any of the beaches starting from 10 rupees and they all have pumping tunes to listen to along the way. The only down side to buses is that they can sometimes get very crowded, smelly and hot and more often than not the drivers drive like absolute lunatics trying to win an F1 race. -Trains- Sleeper trains are a great way to travel long distance and of course it covers overnight accommodation. We used the cheapest option of the AC carriages which was 3 tier. On one side of the train there are booths with three tiers of beds and on the other side there are couples booths with only two tiers. Sleep with your valuables really close by and tucked somewhere beside you. You will be given two sheets per bed which I used one to cover my bunk and one to make a curtain for some privacy – take a couple of pegs to secure it and get creative. You can also travel a few hundred kilometers on the non AC carriages with the locals for a few hundred rupees or so. The carriages can get very crowded and hot and keep in mind that women can only sit next to their husbands and family members or other women. There is usually plenty of room to store your large bags in the over head area. When travelling overnight by train try to book at least 7 days in advance (book it sooner if you have a strict plan for your trip) as they get booked up insanely fast. You can usually order food on the train but it’s always a good idea as a vegan to take some small things with you to snack on. The coffee and Chai that they serve on board all contains milk. India has PLENTY of delicious vegan friendly treats, snacks and meals available. -Rickshaws and Taxis- Always try to do a little research before arriving in a new place so you have an idea of how many kilometers you are from the main town where hotels, guesthouses, hostels and food is located. Rickshaws in South India are cheap and will generally cost around 10-20 rupees per kilometer in most but not all towns. We always manage to fit our two large 20 kg bags and two smaller 5-10 kg bags into one rickshaw. Taxis are sometimes twice the price but the driving does not improve with cost increase. Eating out: Eating at touristy places will often cost you about 3x as much as eating with locals. In Kochi it was cheaper for Rhys and I to catch a rickshaw 3 km and back and eat 3-4 dishes than it was to eat a meal each in the touristy location of Fort Kochi. Plus the food where the locals ate was far tastier than any food we had in the tourist area. We found the Krishna Cafe on Palace Road, our favorite spot for lunch simply by asking a driver to take us to a Masala Dosa (he didn’t understand anything else I was saying). 50 meters up the road toward the Portuguese Palace was another place we went every night for dinner called Athurveya fast food pure Vegetarian – a must try is the Vada Curry (it’s spicy) with Paratha and my favorite: Masala Dosa. Just ask for no butter on the Dosa. Each place will cost around 30-40 rupees per dish = 80 cents to $1 NZ eating at a local restaurant. As a vegan the main things you will need to look out for are milk, butter and ghee. There are ‘Pure Veg’ places on almost every street in the South of India but this means no eggs and no meat – they still use milk and butter/ghee. Don’t be shy to ask for your meals to be made without these ingredients and most people will understand and oblige with a friendly smile. When eating at local places do not drink the water or tea that is on the table. All of the locals use the cups over and over throughout the day – you will notice they do not touch the cups with their lips. Always stick to bottled mineral water that is sealed and never let anyone open the bottle for you. Try to avoid ‘licking the plate clean’ it’s better to leave a layer of food between what you eat and the dishes. Take hand sanitizer with you and use it before every meal and then don’t be afraid to eat with your hands. It’s likely they are cleaner than the cutlery! Where to sleep: I guarantee you will always get a better price showing up in person than you will by booking any accommodation online or in advance. It can be a good idea to see how pricey other places are in the area before showing up as most guesthouses won’t even be advertised online. Also to give you an idea of how much you will be asked for so you have an amount to go by. With a bit of bargaining we have managed to get prices down to half of what was originally quoted. Always ask to see the room before you commit to staying and paying. Sometimes the rooms can be grotty and absolutely filthy. I can deal with a bit of filth and grot for one night but sometimes people will want way too much money so it’s better to move on and find somewhere cleaner for the same or lesser price. Around 500-700 rupees is what we generally pay each night = 10-$15 NZ and each room we have had has been clean and comfortable. This cost does not include air-conditioning but will always have a ceiling fan. The best way to get used to the insane heat is to get rooms with no air-conditioning. Also, get used to the idea of large cockroaches popping out of nowhere. If you are travelling to a different state try to catch a sleeper train AC or a semi sleeper/sleeper bus. That way you can save on accommodation and you get to wake up somewhere new and explore. Culture: - It is fantastic to visit smaller towns that aren’t so touristy but please just be super careful if you are travelling alone as you already stick out like someone snorting crack in a church. Indian people are incredibly friendly but just remember to never let your guard down and always have your wits about you. Most of the time in the South you will get big smiles from lots and lots of staring faces and probably get asked for countless selfies daily. - As a man you can wear anything you like in India but as a woman there is a lot of oppression here. When walking around cities and towns always dress modestly to avoid unwanted attention from men, local gangs and freaky drug dealers. Cover your shoulders with a t-shirt or shawl and wear long loose fitting pants or a skirt. Trust me, you will already stick out enough and by dressing with too much skin showing you will only attract more unwanted attention. The only place where you can wear anything you like is Goa. When you are at some more touristy beaches it is accepted that westerners swim in bathers/togs but always have a shawl or large scarf close by to give yourself some privacy – Indian people always swim fully clothed and it is not odd to see a woman in full gorgeous, saree in the ocean. You can look up other blogs with more information on how to dress in India if this is something that worries you. - Be mindful when entering the incredibly enchanting temples throughout India. Some Hindu people really do not appreciate westerners or non-Hindus entering the temples just to have a look around which is completely fair enough – these are their sacred areas where they pray each day and they want to preserve it as it is. You will not be aloud to take photos inside temples however you can take some snaps from outside which is usually the architecturally exciting, wow-factor, ‘how did they build this?’, type shots that I was looking for. Always ask a religious person if they mind you taking a photo of them before whipping out your camera as some people will get really upset. Try building a friendship first. Other than the above most people of the south are super friendly and are intrigued when they see a gora/westerner so don’t be offended when locals ask you 100 questions. They are genuinely curious of your life story and why you have chosen to visit their country. Give them a big toothy smile and you will generally get one back with a friendly head nod or wave. Sunset at Varkala Cliff Road. My top spots in the South/Beach hopping: Varkala Cliff Road- Yoga, Meditation and all things Ayurveda. Fort Kochi- A small part of the city that is covered in colourful artwork and is the tourist hub. Venture to Palace road for vegan noms with the locals. Catch the ferry to Vippin Island for 3 rupee and watch dolphins chasing after fish in the ocean. Karwar- For one night to pick up cheap trinkets and have a great view of the sun set over the Arabian sea. This is not a touristy town but the locals are very friendly and helpful. Gokarna- Stay at Kudle beach for cheap accommodation right on the beach, around 500 rupees. Venture into the quaint Hindu temple town for a day of exploring the ancient religious village, shopping and photography but do not enter the temples without permission. Have a day to relax on the beautiful Om beach just South of Kudle and watch the Monkeys playing in the tree tops on a walk through the jungle. Goa- Majorda beach is a white sand, clean beach with hardly any visitors and is a beautiful, private tropical get away. Palolem beach is a tourist hub with gorgeous white sand and a thick row of Palm trees providing shade - the perfect place to grab some beautiful bargains to return home with and a busy rave spot during the high tourist season. Coconut Palms at Majorda Beach, Goa. Boats lined up at Palolem beach, Goa.
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