When finding vegan food in Thailand times can be difficult. When we first arrived in Bangkok City, our very first day in Thailand we had absolutely no idea where to start. We searched up and down the busy, bustling city streets from 7am onwards (not much is open before 10am in Asok, Bangkok) hoping to find some breakfast. Things were getting pretty desperate and we finally came across a 24 hour Italian, pizza/pasta restaurant (run by Thai people) so we threw our hands in the air and had pizza for breakfast like we just didn’t care. The struggle to find vegan, not overpriced food in Bangkok city was really, but mainly because we were new to the game. See the game goes a little bit like this: Rule #1 is there is always a language barrier. Learn to accept it and play your cards right to learn what you need to know in order to ask for vegan food. The main lines you need to know are – “I eat vegetarian”, “No eat egg”, “No eat milk”, “No eat cheese”, “No eat butter” and then you are away laughing. I have seen westerners struggle with this barrier many times and it really is so simple to learn these few lines so that people have a basic understanding of what you want and where you are coming from, trust me – life changing sentences in Thailand. Rule #2 learn what is overpriced food especially for back packers on a budget. In Thailand you can find incredibly tasty, fresh and delicious flavour filled food for ridiculously cheap prices but in some places it is far more difficult than others. If you use the happy cow app, before visiting a restaurant you can see the amount of $ signs that the food has been rated. Obviously: $- least expensive all the way through to, $$$- most expensive. If you want to eat western food the whole time you are in Thailand you will basically be spending the same amount you would be at home and you are not supporting the local people in any way, you are supporting large corporation. Some local people will actually give you a discount if you order the vegan/vegetarian option because your meal costs less for them to make (most especially if you ask in Thai or go back once, twice or more frequently). #3 Wear good walking shoes. This last one because honestly sometimes, it’s not easy to find food and you could be searching for hours. As long as you always have water and comfortable shoes, you will come across something, it may just take some time. I have already lost 3kgs because of food hunting, but also maybe because of the 40 degree weather. I always try to stop in at the Tesco Lotus (Thai supermarket) to pick up snacks and things especially before big trips like 16 hour bus rides or 12 hour trains. Most of the ingredients on things will have an English option as well and if not then just don’t trust it. We only ended up finding one really nice vegan place in Bangkok – Mae Vege Garden in Asok, less than 50 meters from the BTS. The food is INCREDIBLE and the service is just as wonderful but the food is quite pricey! Ok for a treat meal but not regular when you are backpacking and trying to get the most out of your money on a budget. Vegan 'fish' served with a mango sweet and sour salad, a vegan burger and a plate of crispy mushrooms with sweet and sour vegetables from Mae vege garden, Bangkok. But then we arrived in the magical Chiang Mai... If you are searching for yoga and food than stay in the square. Here you will find vegan/vegetarian food every 20-50 meters. And yoga studios around every 100-300 meters. I did question if I had died in Bangkok and gone to vegan yogi heaven. There are also beautiful, professional, tattoo studios EVERYWHERE if that’s what your into (it’s totally what I’m into). Chiang Mai is a big city, don’t get me wrong but it has a much more chilled vibe compared to Bangkok and is a lot cleaner. Your feet won’t get dirty from walking around in jandals / flip flops or whatever you want to call them. When we first arrived we stayed in the cheapest accommodation that we could find on Air B n B - $16 per night or $7 each for a private room (cheaper than any hostels that were then available, our visit was during high season early February) Green Zone guesthouse. We stayed here for two nights before moving on. We had only booked two nights but also in our room there were no windows and I do love me some natural light, so we booked at another cheap guesthouse a 10 minute walk (carrying large, heavy backpacks) 3 floors up with windows! Rocky suit tailor and Walkinn guesthouse (Thai’s are incredible multitaskers). My biggest thing would be that the beds here in Thailand are incredibly solid. Like some of them I have slept on felt like a block of concrete – definitely get used to hard beds with not much give. One time we actually slept on the bamboo floor and couldn’t decide if that was more comfortable than the mattress because they honestly felt about the same. On our second visit to Chiang Mai we managed to get a couple of beds in the dorm at Mojito Garden hostel which cost us about 120 baht each per night or $6NZ. Mojito garden was great, the people we shared the dorm with were not so great. When you have to ask someone to turn their alarm off at 3:30 in the morning for the third time, you definitely start to get some ‘I don’t like you’ feels; they come naturally. I went to two different yoga studios in Chiang Mai. One I was invited to as I was walking past with my oversized backpack and yoga mat attached. The owner spotted me walking by and invited me to come along to a class so I went that evening, the studio was Yoga Kuukan. The studio is absolutely gorgeous on the inside, the outside doesn’t do it much justice. The owner herself is really lovely with a beautiful calming energy about her. I was greeted with fresh mint water and a pre set up mat with a cushion resting on top. The class I chose was a 5:30pm hatha flow with a male teacher, originally from Iran who had been teaching and practicing yoga for well over a decade and you could definitely tell through the way he taught. He asked me if I was also a yoga teacher when he walked into the room and said that he could always tell when someone was a yoga teacher. I really enjoyed his class and unfortunately cannot remember his name! The savasana at the end was about 10 minutes long and I absolutely love that – long meditation at the end of a 90 minute class (all classes here seem to be 90 minutes plus). The class cost me 300 baht so around about $12NZ and I would definitely go back. There was only one other guy in the room practicing so it was a really small and intimate setting even though there were another 10 or so mats set up. Because it was such a small, 2 person class the teacher asked me if there was anything that I would like to focus on – I said opening hips so we did a full 90 minutes of hip openers and I felt like I was floating afterwards. The other studio I went to was Wild Rose Yoga, I was recommended this studio by my friend and teacher (he taught me through my 200 hour training) Ku Note. The teacher was a lovely Thai lady named Ellie. I went along to a 10am hatha flow and the studio was completely full, people even practiced in the hallway just to be a part of her class! This class was definitely a much stronger flow with more intermediate and advanced options but a morning class is always going to be different to your evening, cooling down class. Wild Rose Yoga studio had a more natural look to it upon entering with dark wooden decor and minimal accessories in the practicing space. There were about 20 students in this class all who had practiced yoga regularly before. I definitely got the feeling this studio was a bit of a hot spot for travellers as the teacher could teach in both English and Thai. I asked how many teachers taught at the studio and she told me that a lot of people worked there which definitely confirms it is a super popular spot. They also sell beautiful handmade mala beads and wee treats by the counter if you are looking for anything special along those lines while you are in town. I would highly recommend Wild Rose Yoga for the traveller looking for like minded yogis who want to share the space of a hot spot for yogi backpackers (Chiang Mai is full of these soul searchers). I also feel like I learnt a bit from this class that I would love to incorporate into my own teaching and left feeling full of excitement about that. It is incredibly important to me as a yoga teacher to learn from all of my teachers and absorb the things I love in practice that I want to share with others whom I get to teach along the way. My absolute favourite thing about Chiang Mai was the vegan food. There were endless options and I really wish I had time to try them all. Everywhere we went there were signs to draw you in - ‘Vegetarian food’, ‘pure vegan food’, left, right and centre. One place that we spent almost each day at enjoying the delicious, fresh, organic food and the story behind the making – The Bodhi Tree. We were actually quite lucky to find this place as it wasn’t yet on Happy Cow but it was by far the best food I have had upon leaving New Zealand and definitely one of the best vegan burgers of all my time. We actually went back 4 times just for the burger and once we went back twice in one day (but swore we had to try another meal). The Bodhi Tree was started by a group of local women and opened 7 months ago. Each time you go there you will be greeted warmly and genuinely by these lovely ladies. Most of the food they serve comes from their own organic garden but some is purchased from the local organic market. The Bodhi Tree is located behind the Blue Bird eco village, both a bit further down from Gaps House Thai cooking school. We were actually looking for Gaps house at the time we discovered The Bodhi Tree as they serve an all vegetarian and mostly vegan buffet from 7pm onwards, but they were closed on the day we tried to visit and discovered Bodhi Tree cafe thanks to the small signs that were stuck to the wall beside Wat Phan On temple. The cafes seating area is mainly in a small loft with mattresses, cushions and low level kneeling tables, feel free to get very comfortable here – we spent many hours napping on the mattresses and cushions considering ordering more vegan burgers. They also make delicious green and fruit smoothies and I thought the food was fairly priced considering how incredible and filled with love each meal really is. The vegan burger was definitely the star of the show for me, as I said I had it more than 4 times; one time I went to order it and they had actually run out for the day – I almost cried, not going to lie. They serve the burger with a vegan patty inside, the patty is definitely the taste sensation wrapped in layers of fresh, organic salad and topped off with a soft bun. They make their own home made organic vegan mayo and this special passion fruit dressing that is served on the side. Both are delightful smothered all through the burger. At The Bodhi Tree they also make pleasantly appetizing and completely affordable Thai food – all made by locals and everything is at least vegetarian so all you have to do is let them know you are vegan and they understand what to do. We also ate the fried rice and papaya salad and drank iced chocolates made with incredibly fresh and creamy coconut milk. Nothing and I mean NOTHING beats freshly made coconut milk. Upon my return to Chaing Mai, The Bodhi tree will be the first place I go. The lady responsible for running this place also has rooms to rent in a gorgeous , relaxing space where yoga and meditation is encouraged. The prices range from around 350 baht for a room without a kitchen and 450 baht for rooms with a kitchen. Sadly I left Chiang Mai as we were organizing to put on a yoga class for her guests. The other places that you must eat are at the very top of my list: Chiang Mai Vegetarian society, a slightly hidden assortment of rooms and buffets put together where you can get a large and fresh meal for under $2NZ -this is including three plates and a smoothie or two. You will also find everything from supplements to dish soap and beyond. They also have a second hand area and you can make donations of almost anything to help them raise money. A must visit! Bamboo Bees for another mouth-wateringly good burger that I guarantee, you will not be able to fit in your mouth served with home-cut, roasted potatoes. Also try the fresh rolls served with passion fruit sauce for a taste sensation. Bee also runs cooking classes so get in touch if you are interested in a vegan or vegetarian cooking class. Bamboo cafe for an affordable create-your-own breakfast including beans and mushrooms on soft, thick sliced, multi grain toast. For a drink check out THC rooftop bar with a cool view of Thapae gate and a chilled rasta vibe with the only seating being cushions and low level kneeling tables. This place is decorated with awesome fluorescent paintings covering each of the walls and they usually have a live dj. Vegan burger served with a side salad alongside half a spirulina, banana smoothie at The Bodhi Tree Cafe, Chiang Mai. Under $2 or 50 baht meal from the Vegetarian society, Chiang Mai. 2 smoothies, one plate of fresh rolls, one fried noodle with vegetables and a plate of buffet curry served on top of rice. Som Tam or papaya salad, a tradition Thai dish served extremely spicy. try it with one chillie first and if you still feel like your entering hell through the inside of your mouth order it without the spice, the flavours are tangy and refreshing! NOT FOOD: go to at least one Muay Thai boxing night at the Thapae boxing stadium, tickets will cost you around 400 baht each or $16NZ. The natural highlight of Chiang Mai was the grand canyon. It's a beautiful spot to just sit and take in the scenery with a cafe offering fruit shakes and coffee - of course. if you want to swim you will see people jumping from the heights of the canyon walls into the incredibly deep, blue water. It's an awesome place to cool off on those hot Chiang Mai days and just to breathe in the air and be a part of the fun. We spent a few hours recording footage on the go pro jumping into the water and chilling on a bamboo raft. Unfortunately when I jumped off the raft and into the water I went to pass Rhys the go pro thinking that it was attatched to my wrist but it wasn't and it went down faster than an olympic sprint. We tried to catch it but it was long gone into the depths of 35-40 meters of dark water joining the other lost belongings that spend the rest of their days on the canyon floor. Walking around Chiang Mai city really is a magical adventure in itself. You will find a temple on almost every street. On our final day in Chiang Mai we found a Tarot card reader and fortune teller stationed outside the 7/11. I decided I wanted to get my cards read and what followed was a very promising and positive reading. The things she had said to me were quite spot on. She told me that I had a sixth sense which I have been told my many spiritual readers and healers. She told me that I had a guardian angel watching over me and that I have always known this and felt it but never seen it, which is also true. She also told me that I had been worrying too much about money lately, which I have. She followed this up by saying that in March I will have good luck with money and in 3 years I won’t be worried about money at all. She told me that my job is going to involve a lot of travelling here and there and starting and stopping/changing jobs. She also told me that in 8 years I would have my own successful business and in 10 years I would be leading a happy family life. Rhys had a reading after me and his was not as completely positive – he was told that there was a negative spirit following him and trying to cause him to have an accident. She said that if he wanted good luck we would have to find a monk wearing a yellow/gold robe who would do a blessing for Rhys and give him good luck. We spent our final day searching temples for a monk in yellow or gold. 5 temples, 5 prayers, 5 offerings and 2 coconut ice-creams later we had finally found a monk wearing gold and asked him to do a blessing for us on our travels and to clear Rhys of this bad spirit. We received a blessing that took about 5 minutes. The monk chanted in Thai a Buddhist prayer and sprayed us with holy water about 10 times. Afterward we had to pour the water from a ceramic cup (that we were given as the prayer started) onto a tree outside the temple. The monk told us that Buddha teaches us not to attach to ideas and things. He said that although this fortune teller may have told us this, don’t attach to the idea. Do good and good things will return to your life.
Chiang Mai was marvellous and I anticipate my return to eat, yoga and temple visit in this charming city of Thailand.
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